The Last Stop in the Cyclades

Photo: Wikimedia Commons

I spent seven hours on the deck of a Blue Star ferry watching the Santorini caldera fade into a smudge on the horizon before Anafi finally appeared. It is a massive hunk of granite sticking out of the Cretan Sea, and the first thing you notice isn’t the white houses, but the smell of wild thyme and the relentless whip of the Meltemi wind against the ferry’s steel hull. There are no cruise ships here and very few rental cars. It is the kind of place where you judge the time by the position of the sun and the vibration of the daily bus climbing the switchbacks from the port to the village.

Island Character & Who It Suits

Anafi is the antithesis of its neighbor, Santorini. While the rest of the Cyclades has moved toward high-end boutiques and infinity pools, Anafi remains stubbornly tethered to a slower, more difficult reality. The island is dominated by a single village, Chora, perched high on a ridge, and a landscape that feels more like a lunar outpost than a vacation spot.

This island is for people who find value in long, hot walks on goat paths and who don’t mind a bit of dust on their boots. It suits solo travelers looking for silence and hikers who want to tackle serious vertical gains. If you require beach service, air-conditioned transfers, or a choice of twenty different cocktail bars, you should skip it. Anafi will frustrate you with its limited schedules and lack of traditional tourist infrastructure.

Seasonal Rhythm & When to Visit

The window for a functional visit is narrower than on larger islands. June and September are the sweet spots. During these months, the sea is warm enough for swimming, the tavernas are all open, and the ferry schedule is reliable.

July and August bring the Meltemi, a fierce north wind that can make sitting on a beach feel like being sandblasted. This is also when the island fills up with free campers and young Athenians, stretching the limited water and power resources to their brink. Winter is for the truly dedicated; ferry cancellations are common due to high seas, and most of the village shuts down, leaving only a handful of residents and a single grocery store.

Unmissable Coastal Spots & Landmarks

Roukounas is the island’s most famous beach, a long stretch of coarse sand and pebbles that has served as a hub for wild camping for decades. It is wide, unshaded, and has a single taverna that serves as the local social center. For something more contained, Klisidi is within walking distance of the port and offers a small cove with clear, deep water.

The undisputed landmark of the island is Kalamos, the second-largest monolithic limestone rock in the Mediterranean after Gibraltar. At its summit sits the Kalamiotissa monastery. The hike takes about ninety minutes from the lower monastery of Zoodochos Pigi. It is a steep, rocky ascent, but the view from the top provides a clear 360-degree look at the empty sea. Do this at dawn to avoid the midday heat, as there is zero shade on the trail.

Ferry Routes & Access

Getting here requires planning. There is no airport. Most travelers fly into Santorini (Thira) and take a local ferry. The crossing can take anywhere from 90 minutes on a fast boat to nearly three hours on a conventional ferry, depending on the weather and the vessel.

The main carrier is Blue Star, which runs large, stable ships a few times a week from Piraeus. There are also smaller, subsidized “barren line” ferries like the Prevelis or the Artemis that connect Anafi to nearby islands like Ios, Sikinos, and Folegandros. Always check the Openseas or Ferryhopper apps 24 hours before departure, as the port at Anafi is exposed and ferries are frequently delayed or diverted if the wind exceeds 7 or 8 Beaufort.

On-the-Ground Transport

The transport situation is basic. There is one primary bus that runs a circuit between the Port (Agios Nikolaos), Chora, and the beaches of Klisidi and Roukounas. The schedule is posted on a handwritten sheet at the port and in the main square of Chora.

A few small agencies in the port and Chora rent mopeds and a very limited number of small cars. If you plan to rent a vehicle in July or August, you must book weeks in advance. The roads are paved but narrow with steep drop-offs and no guardrails. For most, the bus and your own feet are the most reliable ways to get around. Walking from Chora down to the port takes about 20 minutes via the old stone donkey path, which is much faster than waiting for the bus.

Where to Base Yourself

You really only have two choices: Chora or the port area. Chora is the heart of the island. It’s a classic Cycladic village with narrow alleys designed to break the wind. Staying here puts you near the bakeries, the pharmacy, and the majority of the tavernas. It is the best choice for first-timers and those without their own transport.

The port and nearby Klisidi beach offer a handful of rooms for those who want to be able to walk into the water first thing in the morning. It’s quieter at night but requires a bus ride or a steep hike every time you want a proper meal or to buy supplies.

Local Gastronomy & Evening Rhythms

The food on Anafi is simple and relies heavily on what can be grown or raised on the island. Look for “pitaridia,” which is a local handmade pasta, and “meloftera,” a goat cheese tart sweetened with honey. The local honey is exceptional, flavored by the wild thyme that covers the hills.

The price level is lower than the more famous islands, with a solid dinner for two usually costing around 40 to 50 euros. Nightlife is centered around the small squares in Chora. People sit out late drinking raki or local wine, but it’s a conversational atmosphere rather than a club scene. Tap water is produced by a desalination plant; it is safe for washing but has a brackish taste, so most people buy large bottles of water for drinking.

Essential Practical Survival Tips

Cash is a major logistical hurdle. There is only one ATM on the entire island, located in Chora. It frequently runs out of money or refuses to accept certain international cards, especially during the August rush. Carry enough cash to cover your entire stay. While larger tavernas and hotels now accept cards, smaller shops and the bus driver do not.

Mobile connectivity is generally good in Chora and at the port, with 4G coverage available from Cosmote and Vodafone. However, once you go behind the mountain toward the eastern beaches or the monastery, the signal drops off entirely. If you use an eSIM, ensure it’s activated before you leave Santorini, as the port Wi-Fi is nonexistent.

Secret Escapes vs Overcrowded Spots

The most overrated experience is trying to stay at the port during a ferry arrival. It’s a chaotic thirty minutes of diesel fumes and shouting as the island’s entire logistics chain happens at once. Get on the bus and head to Chora immediately.

For a true escape, head to the beach of Monastiri at the far eastern end of the road. Most people stop at Roukounas, so Monastiri remains quiet even in mid-summer. It’s a small, sandy cove right below the lower monastery. There are no facilities here, so bring your own water and food. It’s the quietest place on an island that is already one of the quietest in Greece.